Posted by: prairiespinner | January 23, 2010

Another fiction-inspired sweater design

I suppose it was inevitable that two of my worlds – books and knitting – would collide, and I’m enjoying the result! I am also seeing the beginning of a trend.

The first one, of course, was the “Ithilien Brocade Jacket“, inspired by J.R.R. Tolkien’s Lord of the Rings character Eowyn.

The inspiration for this new one is Lessa, a pivotal person on Anne McCaffrey’s Pern.  The Dragonriders of Pern series, beginning with “Dragonflight”, is a classic in the sci-fi/fantasy genre (I’m not even touching that genre controversy), and I think Lessa can take some of the credit for that.  She is one of many characters who are beautifully crafted, believable, and very human.

This sweater is also intended as a compliment to Anne McCaffrey, herself a knitter.  She even wrote a contemporary fiction book, “Stitch in Snow”, whose protagonist is a nearly-obsessed knitter of Aran sweaters.

There are a couple of reasons that I like this confluence of interests.  First, fiction makes for a fascinating starting place for a sweater design.  I have come to realize that great characters in an interesting plot is only part of what draws me back to certain books.  When an author places those elements in a landscape that is almost another character itself, and then wraps them in cultures, traditions and history, that sub-creation becomes almost irresistible.  Paul Kocher, in his book “Master of Middle Earth”, defined the allure of certain fictional worlds: “Familiar but not too familiar, strange but not too strange.”  That rich background of culture and character is an endless source of ideas for creative readers, and once again, my chosen medium is yarn.

Another reason I like designing sweaters ‘for’ fictional characters is much less esoteric – they ALWAYS like what I like!  Once I decide they would like something, of course they can’t argue.  There are no tiresome negotiations on color, length, neckline, any of the gazillion little decisions that go into a new design.  It may be selfish, but there it is.  I like deciding these things, and it’s even better when I can imagine someone I admire peering over my shoulder to check on her sweater’s progress and nodding in approval.

Now, on to the details.  “Lessa” (the obvious name for the pattern) had to be red for Ruatha, and have cables to represent her distant Irish ancestry.  It needed to be fitted (easy to slip a wherhide flying jacket over), and had to be made of soft wool.  There are definitely sheep on Pern, but apparently not so many other fiber animals.  And it had to be warm, for those late-night hikes across a frosty Weyr bowl to the kitchen cavern.  After long consideration, the yarn I selected is KnitPicks’ Merino Style in Hollyberry.

So here’s its beginning… at least the first iteration!

Back neck

This is going to be a split funnel neck; a wide cable flows down the center front and back, with the center section of that cable repeated down the sleeves.

Right saddle (neck/shoulder)

The second picture is a view of the saddle, with the stitches to be picked up for the sleeve held on white yarn.  The front sections are on blue stitch holders.

I’m most likely going to rip out what you see here.  There are a couple of things bugging me about it, and I may end up knitting the set-in sleeve caps in the round along with the body of the sweater, instead of picking up from the armhole and working them separately.

I have a couple more tweaks in the design just to make it more interesting, but we’ll get to them as we go along.

The wonderful cable pattern is from Annie Maloney’s Cable Knitting Handbook.  I love the cable designs in this book!  And I’m using construction techniques from Janet Szabo’s Aran Sweater Design.  I cannot recommend it highly enough, either!  Armed with these two excellent resources, anyone who is interested in creating their own cabled sweater design will be ready to go.

Posted by: prairiespinner | December 31, 2009

Holiday feasting of all sorts

We’re all familiar with the dilemma of holiday goodies, whether it’s the traditional big dinners or the traditional gifting and sharing of candies, snacks and baked items.  Way too much to eat, and all of it tempting!  Self-control is the watchword for those who understand the dangers of overindulgence.  Perhaps it’s too bad that there aren’t really any dangerous side effects from the sensory feast of new yarn…

I do not have a large stash of yarn, as these things go, but it grew some more just now when I wasn’t looking.  The problem is, my ‘free’ time is NOT growing.  And the ideas are.  When in the world am I going to be able to turn these balls and skeins into the garments I see in my head??

Okay, let’s take the new stuff in turn.  Mind you, I currently have one sweater, a scarf, and a pair of socks on the needles.  Oh, and some cute miniature socks, but those hardly count, since they’re finished so fast, and are made from leftovers anyhow.

Teeny socks

And next in line (except that it is lobbying hard to get ahead of the other sweater – I have been flirting with swatches) is the lovely red wool destined to become a cabled sweater.  I could point out the place I was driving on the highway when that one leaped into existence in my mind’s eye, a detailed design, full-grown at birth like Venus.  It’s the actual writing of the pattern that is taking time.  Not to mention the knitting.

Now for the new stuff.

1) Here’s the yarn I finally finished spinning over the holidays:

The last bobbin, just before plying.

I bought the fiber in the late summer of 2006, then planned the spinning and sorted it all out right away.  Every once in a while I get organization right!  The actual spinning sessions were very sporadic, with long hibernations in between each flurry of activity.  In spite of that, the skeins are pretty consistent.  This yarn is destined to become a sleeveless top, probably with a scoop neckline to wear with a paua shell necklace that I need to make.  A nice, simple garment to show off the fabulous color and sheen of the fiber.

Finished “Paua Shell” yarn

This is Bonkers 50/50 Tencel/Merino blend in Dragonfly colorway, purchased at The Yarn Barn in Lawrence, Kansas.  I know, this isn’t technically new, but as a project’s-worth of yarn, it is.

2) Here’s my Christmas gift yarn:

Dream In Color "Starry" in Bermuda Teal

This is the gorgeous Starry in Bermuda Teal, by Dream In Color.  Yes, that sparkly stuff is actually sterling silver!!  I haven’t seen a picture yet that can do it justice, but still, I DARE YOU to look at that and not drool!  I was originally planning to make a pair of socks, but could not bear the idea of walking on it.  So, using a (non-Christmas) gift card, I ordered a couple of skeins in the same color of the companion non-silvery yarn, Smooshy, to knit an elegant cardigan.

3) I also included in that order a skein of Starry in natural white from Simply Socks Yarn Company.  And I ordered this pattern: Starry, Starry Night.  Serendipity?  Or kismet?  We’ll never know, but that yarn and that pattern were obviously meant for each other!  Sure, I considered using the teal yarn for it, but I will wear it more often in white, and we have to be practical about these things.

4) And finally, I got a call today from Yarn that the Lana Gatto VIP that I ordered last fall had finally arrived!  I had been content to wait however long it took to produce more, since I had plenty of projects to keep me busy.   But no, it had to arrive on top of everything else!  This is the first cashmere (20%) yarn that I’ve purchased, and would never have sprung for a whole bag of it, except… a gift certificate, the generous prize for the state fair win.  Thank you again, Deb and the staff at Yarn!

Sooo soft! 80% fine wool, 20% cashmere

I think this one will have to wait a while.  I think.  Again, the design for this sweater has been rattling around in my head for a few months.  It took some time to grow, but is pretty firm by now.  The blue Rowan Damask will be part of it, too.

Rats.  I really want to get started on it.  Self-control stinks sometimes.

At least I am in no danger of getting bored.

Posted by: prairiespinner | December 8, 2009

Sock mods

One of the great things about knitting is that you can customize or modify a pattern – even your own – in whatever way you choose. Of course, that opportunity does occasionally backfire, but that just means you have learned something.  Again.

Here’s an example of a modification that seems to have worked out just the way I planned it.  I found a cable rib that I liked in a book, and tweaked it a bit to use in my standard sock pattern.  It starts out as a simple 2×2 rib, but morphs into cables that shift from side to side.  Each ’shifting’ cable element happens over a set of three knit columns, and is mirrored in neighboring sets, with an entire repeat spanning 24 stitches.  At a gauge of 9 stitches per inch (about right for a fine-ish sock yarn) three repeats fit nicely on a 72-stitch round.  Of course, 3 repeats is an odd number…

But it works just fine, as long as you don’t insist that the front and back are identical.   I don’t.  It is still perfectly balanced and symmetrical, and I am pleased.  I made the first pair for my sister, in a lovely Jojoland Melody yarn that shades softly and quietly from one color to the next.  The color changes aren’t identical in the two socks, so they’re fraternal instead of identical twins.  My sister has always liked things just a little offbeat, so I thought it was a good match for her personality!

Shifting Cables socks I

Shifting Cables socks in Melody yarn

I’ll admit, I thought about keeping them.  But I always think the best gifts are things that you would like to have yourself (just in case the recipient decides the gift doesn’t suit them and gives it back…  I’m still waiting).  Anyway, I liked the way the pattern turned out, and thought it would also make a good men’s sock.  Since I wanted to make some for my generous and charming friend Darrell, I set out to knit a second pair.  I sent him pictures of three blue sock yarns to choose from, and he picked the denim-y Regia Tweed 4-ply.

As I began working out the details, though, things didn’t fit quite as nicely as for the first ones.  The gauge for this yarn was different, his foot is wider, and I don’t think his ankles are as trim as my sister’s.  But I still needed to have the same number of stitches around the leg for that pattern…

Long story short, I knit the foot on smaller needles, inserting my mini-gusset as I neared the short-row heel.  This time, I didn’t decrease the gusset stitches away, since they just happened to give me the number I needed for the leg.

Short-row heel with mini-gusset increases

The sock leg

But did you notice how much the cable rib pulls in on her socks?  A regular rib would expand a lot more than these cables would allow, so I needed to build in some extra room.  A couple of rounds after finishing the heel, I switched to larger needles and began the pattern.  And it worked out just fine!

Also fortunately, cable patterns are nearly incapable of sagging.  So even if they are not really snug, they certainly won’t fall down!

I may never know whether I should have switched back to the smaller needles for the ribbing at the top.  I have a sneaking suspicion I should have, but am going to leave well enough alone.

This was also my first time to use Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off, and I was very pleased with the outcome.  My old standby is the EZ sewn bind-off (scroll down), but this new one may rival it…

Well, I finished the socks, and a first washing transformed them!  They were nice to start with, but a machine-wash made them so soft and fluffy I was amazed at the difference.  I still expect that they will wear well, but now they feel even better.

The finished product, ready to ship!

The Regia yarn was very nice to knit, and (Darrell said “Know thyself” and requested machine-washable yarn) easy care, including tumble drying.  The tweed is beautiful.  The only thing that worries me a little is that many of the little neps of color were not well-anchored in the yarn, and I expect will drift off with wearing and washing.  Somehow, I don’t think that will keep me awake at night.

I was surprised that it was so hard to find a tweedy sock yarn.  There are tons of unique and often beautiful hand-dyed sock yarns available, lots of self-patterning and self-striping yarns (not for me), and some lovely heathers and solids, but a real dearth of sock tweeds.  Someone needs to fix that, but in the meantime, Regia will get my money for the next tweedy pair!

Posted by: prairiespinner | November 19, 2009

Ithilien finishing details

As I was closing in on finishing the Ithilien Brocade Jacket, I was finally faced with some decisions that had been pretty easy to put off until that point.  I knew generally where I wanted to go with it, but couldn’t hammer out some of those details until I actually got there.

One of those areas was the collar; the plan was to miter the cable on the front band to turn the corner on each side, then pick up neck edge stitches as I worked toward meeting in the back.  The big questions were 1) where exactly on the cable would I reach the miter point, and 2) would they collide when they met at the center back?  Oh, yes, and how would that come together with the center back cable?  It was way too much to hope that they could be seamlessly grafted – I was just hoping it would not turn out to be a three-way crash.

Mitered collar

So, the miter turned out pretty well… the knotwork balanced nicely on each side of the pivot point.  As with the rest of the cable, the ‘upstream’ pointy end is a little pointier than the ‘downstream’ end, but I can live with that.  Since the neckband curves, the cable design is a bit compressed in some areas, but again, that is to be expected.

Center back neck

Sure enough, there wasn’t quite enough room to put in a center ‘knot’.  Nor would the loose end of the center back cable band fit in.  I toyed with the idea of joining them all into a triskele, but there wasn’t quite enough room for that, either.  So I settled on i-cord growing from  the cables, with a leaf-shaped tip.

Lower button band; also a good look at the color progression

And, in the interest of continuity, I did the same thing on the bottom of the front cables.

Next up was the issue of button placement.  I’d been mulling this over for some time, and had decided early on that the buttons should not be on the cabled band at all; I did not want to hide those cables.  So a double i-cord edging for the center front seemed an ideal solution.  The buttons would be highlighted against the blue-green, and the buttonholes would be nearly invisible between the two rows of i-cord.  I worked the first row along both center fronts, then started a new row all the way around the center fronts, neckband and lower edge, grafting the ends together.

Inside out

But the neckband facing had to come before the i-cord.  I had fun shading the cuff facings, but decided to go with a solid bronze for the neckband.  Besides the fact that it would look much more finished (and the neckband facing would show, unlike the cuff facing), the stranding on the inside of the cables would be nicely protected from snags.

In the photos of the cables and the sweater turned inside out, you can easily see the color progression; this was the part of the sweater design that actually gave me the biggest headache, and took the most time.

I started buying yarn in 2005, but shelved the whole idea when I couldn’t find a bronze-colored yarn that suited me OR enough background colors that were close enough to shade from one to the next, and similar enough in value to avoid obvious striping.

Picking up the project idea again in 2007, I started buying single balls of yarn from a variety of sources.  Local yarn shops are always best, since you can see and feel the actual yarn, and can compare it to yarn you already have.  Unfortunately, there doesn’t seem to be a big demand in my area for fingering-weight 100% wool.  I found plenty of sock yarn with nylon, but that’s not what I was after.  There are, of course, lots of online sources, but colors on a monitor are always iffy.  Color cards helped with those LYS special orders as well as online, but a single snippet doesn’t tell you everything about how a number of colors will work together.  So I still have a number of colors that I didn’t use in this sweater, but I expect I’ll use them in something some day.

When the dust settled, I ended up with yarns from three different manufacturers: Brown Sheep Nature Spun, KnitPicks Palette and JaggerSpun 2/8.  Some are heathers, some solids.  Some are fairly loosely-spun two-ply, some are more firmly spun three-ply.  But amazingly enough, they all ended up looking pretty much like they were made for each other.  I spent a LOT of time swatching, and then washed the resulting fabric, and was pleased to find that the firm yarns bloomed and the looser yarns firmed up with the relatively snug gauge.  (I got a little bit hooked on the swatching.  I still don’t know for sure whether it was the voyage of discovery or fear of commitment…)  The resulting fabric is surprisingly light and drapey.

I used three shades of blue, three of green, and three of purple.  The general sequence goes (three rows of each color): green, blue-green, blue, blue-purple, purple, blue-purple, blue, blue-green, green and so on, but with more color variants in between.

I still think I would recommend going with the same brand of yarn for a project whenever possible, but when it isn’t, for whatever reason, it’s worth experimenting.  Since I wasn’t in a big hurry, and (mostly) enjoyed the experimentation, it definitely worked for me!

Posted by: prairiespinner | November 3, 2009

Ithilien construction details

Although I do not plan to publish the pattern for Ithilien Brocade Jacket, I did want to detail some of the construction ideas I experimented with.

Waist Shaping:
I wanted this to be a fitted garment; and with the detailed stitch pattern, I knew I’d need to plan the shaping to happen at ’seamlines’.  Since I knit it in the round, with a steek at the front opening, there were no actual seams, but I designated a ’seam’ stitch at each side to help me while knitting it, and to help with blocking later.  This stitch was purled in the background color, to disappear into the knitted fabric.  (You can just see it in the picture below.. the left gusset is pointing to it.)

Gussets

Left side and back cabled gussets

I also wanted the cable to be more than just a front band decoration, so decided to create a triangular cable motif that would complement the original cable, and which would act as side and back gussets. The best tool for me in determining where and how much shaping to build in was the duct tape ‘dress form’ that my daughter helped me make.  That provided an excellent way for me to see, double-check, and even dissect my measurements, without having to wait for someone willing to measure various parts of me at odd hours.  I knew, then, that I would need the majority of hip shaping at the sides, and some, but not as much, at the center back.  Since that gusset flows into the center back cable, it does not add as much shaping as the side gussets – just what I needed.

With the gussets doing the work as far as hip shaping was concerned, I could just knit the patterned sections straight.  After a short straight section for the waist, I increased gradually in pattern at the side seams to reverse the taper… then on to the next problem.

Bust shaping:
Yes, for a fitted garment, even I need some bust shaping.  If not working a complex stitch pattern, I would have gone with short row shaping to mimic sewn darts.  But that wouldn’t work here.  After a fair amount of measuring and pencil-to-paper work, I decided to try something I haven’t seen elsewhere – increasing on the fronts at the side seams to add about an inch on each side.  Of course, that extra fabric would have to be decreased as well!  I incorporated the decreases in the armhole shaping, drastically decreasing on every round at the front to eat up the increases and still get the usual armhole shaping taken care of at the same rate as on the back.

Side front increases

Red lines indicate bust shaping increases

This photo shows the side seam at the right underarm; the red lines mark the additional increases to provide bust shaping, and end at the grafted underarm.

Seamless Set-in Sleeve:
I had been unable to find much in the way of instructions or examples of a bottom-up seamless sleeve with the traditional set-in shaping – but this type of sleeve is the most fitted and appropriate for the shape of the entire sweater, so I was determined to give it a shot.  At about this point, I did find that Ysolda Teague’s Little Birds pattern uses a similar technique, so I purchased and downloaded the pattern from Twist Collective, Fall 2008 issue.

Basically, I knit the sleeves up to the armhole (figuring background colors so they would match), and moved the appropriate number of underarm stitches – an equal number on both the sleeves and the body – to waste yarn for later grafting.  I then worked the first round of right front, right sleeve, back, left sleeve and left front.  I had already plotted standard armhole decreases and the sleeve cap shaping, taking into account the extra decreases required for the bust shaping.  From there, I simply proceeded to decrease each section as if I had been knitting the pieces separately.

Seamless set-in sleeve

Seamless set-in sleeve

There’s one thing I should have done differently; I kept up with the purl-stitch fake seam around the sleeve/body join.  As it turned out, it was loose and rather messy, so just before beginning the shoulder slope, I used a crochet hook to pick up a column of knit stitches to take up the slack.  That worked pretty well, but now I know to avoid that whole issue next time.  Also, I should mention that the photo above was taken before blocking… the shape of the sleeve cap really does look better now!

I would advise putting a stitch marker at each ’seam’ or joining point.  Then, when you decrease, be sure all decreases lean toward the marker.  In other words, do a left-leaning decrease, slip the marker, then do a right-leaning decrease.

The height of my sleeve cap was almost exactly 2/3 the height of the body from the beginning of the armhole to the outside shoulder, which seems to be standard for this particular sleeve configuration.

When I reached the point where one would normally bind off the stitches at the top of the sleeve, I carefully marked the center of those stitches, and stopped knitting in the round.  The remainder of the front was worked flat.  At the end of each row, I picked up one live stitch at the top of the sleeve, then turned to work back across and pick up the next live stitch at the top of the other sleeve.  When I got to the center sleeve markers on the front, I switched to the back and repeated the process.   (Not forgetting, of course, to do neck shaping where needed!)

The shoulder slope was done with short rows, again leaving live stitches.  The last bit, then, was a 3-needle bind-off of the shoulder seams, making sure the sleeve heads were neat and secure.

Inside shoulder

Shoulder seam 3-needle bind-off

Outside shoulder

Finished shoulder seam and sleeve

I would like to note that Elizabeth Zimmermann included a number of seamless sleeve options in her books… I believe Knitting Without Tears (scroll down on the page) is the one that spells out several variations.  In Vogue Knitting, Holiday 2009 issue, Jared Flood’s article also gives directions for seamless set-in sleeves.  However, the shaping in those techniques is slightly different; the sleeve and body decreases are not done simultaneously as with this sweater.  I’m not sure that even a careful observer would notice the difference between the techniques in a finished garment – it probably boils down to knitter’s preference!

Next installment: Color and finishing details.

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